Photography in Alfama (7 Crowd-Free Tips & Best Time in Lisbon 2025)

How to get a picture of someone in Alfama without any people in the background? It's possible, but yes, you will sweat a little. The day of the week, the time of year, and the path you take are all important. The neighborhood looks like it came straight from a postcard, but there are days when so many tourists come that it feels like you're in a parade. But if you know a few tricks, you can get those pictures where it's just you, your model, and the old streets of Lisbon.

Time is the most important thing

Not just "morning," I mean the morning. Like 7:00 on the dot, or earlier if you want Portas do Sol or Miradouro Santa Luzia to be completely empty. That's the only time you'll see them without selfie sticks all over the place. The city feels like it's still asleep, and the air smells like coffee because cafés are just opening.

The first tourists start to show up around 9:00. After ten, forget it. If you want that soft, romantic light with no people in it, you have to wait until sunrise. In the winter, the sun rises later, so you don't have to get out of bed at 5:30.

The other choice is before sunset

If you don't believe in getting up early, go for an hour or so before the sun goes down. It's never as quiet as in the morning, but weekdays can be nice. The light is golden, and the terracotta roofs and tiles start to shine. But after 6 p.m., fado dinners start, people come back with wine glasses in hand, and you're done. Honestly, in the evenings it's less about finding empty places to look and more about staying away from the obvious ones, stick to the smaller streets.

Choose your day carefully

Tuesday through Thursday are your friends. Monday is sneaky, museums are closed, so people walk around. Saturday is a living hell. There are already a lot of tripods at 8 am. Also, other photographers know these rules, so even if the tourists aren't there, you might still have to wait for another photographer to finish.

What are the seasons?

There is a lot of chaos in the summer. People are everywhere, making it hot and loud from dawn to midnight. Spring and fall are the best times to visit because it's still warm but there are fewer people. From November to February, it's magical. Sometimes you have the whole street to yourself. The light can be gray, but who cares? The colors of Alfama's rooftops, azulejos, doors, and yellow trams make it come to life.

Spots worth knowing:

• Miradouro de Santa Luzia is very popular, sunrise or nothing.
• Portas do Sol, same rule.
• The Castelo de São Jorge opens at 9:00, so get there early.
• Miradouro de Santo Estêvão is less well-known, often quiet even at night.
• Beco do Forno, street art, morning is the best time.
• A patio behind Largo do Peneireiro with red doors, a hidden courtyard.
• Lower Alfama, close to the Fado Museum, fewer tourists. On weekday mornings, streets like Rua dos Remédios and Beco da Formosa are quiet and full of character.

But really, these are just signs. The real magic of Alfama is in the streets you stumble upon. If you turn randomly, you'll get the real vibe without all the selfies.

Little tips:

• Use a shallow depth of field to hide people who are out of focus.
• Hold on, when the crowd moves in waves, you get 20 seconds of peace.
• Move quickly, take the shot if you see it. Don't think too much.
• Is the tram coming? Get ready for the group that comes after it.
• Don't be afraid to go into a courtyard, but be polite.

Tripod? Lights?

If you set up a big tripod or start opening softboxes, you look like a commercial crew, and someone might ask for a permit. But if it's just you, one camera, and maybe a small tripod early in the morning, no one cares. Just don't make it look like an "influencer circus" with assistants and lights set up in the middle of the street.

In short

Alfama is a maze. If you turn off the main road, you'll find dozens of beautiful, empty streets that are great for taking pictures. The key is to take your time, explore, and not worry about getting everything right. The best shots don't always look perfect, they have mood. If you'd rather not play the guessing game, just send me a message, I know where to take you for a great photographer session.